By: Holly Bourbon
Reprinted with permission of the Woman Diver’s Hall of Fame.
Like any great journey, our trip began with extensive travel. After 30 active hours in travel (60 total) that included stopovers in Jakarta, Indonesia, bustling Sarong, Papua New Guinea, and a 4–5-hour, high-speed ferry ride to the island chain of Misool in the coral triangle, we arrived at Batbitim. Fellow WDHOF travelers were Nancy McGee (2008), Robin Parish (2012), and Patty Seery (2018). The travel was worth the wait as upon arrival we were welcomed at the pier entrance by the resort’s friendly staff of over 50 people including the managers. This magical place was more than worth the wait!
We were welcomed by the incredible staff while our luggage and dive gear were shuttled to our villas in various locations on the island (north over the water villas and south side villas in the canopy). This Blue Green travel fundraiser for the Boston Sea Rover’s 70th and OWUSS’s 50th included members of both groups and friends. We were about 32 in all about to embark upon an amazing 9 days.
The island we were on is a private island south/southwest of West Papua, New Guinea, and is about 170 acres with no fresh water. This island is small enough that it is not found on many maps. Misool Island’s founders first set foot on the island in 2005 and at that time it was an itinerant shark finning camp. Soon after, and with the support of the local community, the island and its rights to the sea were leased. The Batbitim No-Take Zone was also established. The lagoon is now a thriving nursery for baby black tip sharks and a multitude of other species. Sharks are now a welcome sight as the Misool Marine Reserve has expanded. Misool resort opened in 2008 and is built from reclaimed tropical hardwoods milled at their own sawmill.
Not only was the diving mesmerizing, mind-blowing, and fish and coral species-rich, but many of us could snorkel right off the House Reef from our Villa (12 water cottages) allowing is close experiences with blacktip reef sharks, green sea turtles, humphead wrasse, bumphead parrotfish, hard and soft corals, and other species. On the south side there was also the Blue Lagoon and Nest, an over-the-water stilt structure. The area also boasts 1,639 species.
Our experience began with an amazing lunch at the restaurant that overlooked the north lagoon. The meal experience would be the first of many that included produce from the island’s hydroponic garden, vegan and vegetarian options, and choices to meet everyone’s needs. Meals were tailored around diving, snorkeling, and other activities and while you could have a more leisurely schedule, days began with first breakfast before the 8 a.m. dive, second breakfast post the 8 a.m. dive, lunch after the 11 a.m. dive, afternoon snacks between 4-5 p.m. and the dinner beginning at about 6:30 p.m. These dinners were also tailored around dusk and night dives. After a full day of water activities, many of us were ready for bed – after these sumptuous meals. The staff noted that 9 p.m. was analogous to midnight when most guests disappeared to the comfort of their villas. Accommodations included smart mosquito-netted, spacious beds with individual AC units.
Our days were filled with these various water activities including the option for 4-5 dives/day. One could also participate in a variety of spa activities (amazing massages, facials, etc.) and 10 of us even took a cooking class learning to make some of my favorite foods at the restaurant (Soto Noodle Soup, Sambal Matah (Raw Chili Sauce), and Peanut butter Onde Onde (Indonesian dessert)). A hike to The Farm and Hydroponic gardens, or South Beach, could also satisfy the hiking urge. The staff was also always willing to accommodate all the guests’ needs. In no time, the staff learned our individual names and needs including morning coffee orders and other meal preferences. They were some of the friendliest people I have met in my travels.
The scuba diving groups were partitioned into about 6 divers/snorkelers per smaller boats and the daily schedule and weather was usually posted at the “Hive” dive staging area. Each boat ad 2 instructor/divemaster guides and a boat captain. The staff was incredibly knowledgeable about the dive sites and animal species we visited, making sure to offer enough variety and levels accommodating all divers’ skill levels. Each dive boat became a mini-family with laughter emanating from the boats as the returned to the Hive each day. I was able to complete 25 dives on the trip and we were each presented with a dive log outlining our one-week-plus of dives, locations, and our crew’s names. These same dive boat crewmembers made sure our dive equipment was clean and drying once our last day of diving was upon us. No need or task was forgotten to make our experience the best.
In addition to the amazing diving, wonderful healthy and fresh food, accommodating and friendly staff, the management team offered 4 evening lectures. These included Marine Life, the Building, the Foundation, and Manta Project Presentations. We also were offered a short visit to see the 8 juvenile leopard (zebra) sharks that are part of the ReShark program to reintroduce zebra sharks back in the Marine Park. A small area of the Hive had an enclosed mini-aquarium set-up, housing leathery eggs that were obtained from Australia, and live aquarium systems to accommodate the growing stages of the sharks.
The staff also offered a variety of other excursions including Lagoon, Sunset, Coral Planting, Underwater Scooter treks, kayaking and paddleboarding, birding, etc. These offerings were either a diversion from diving and snorkeling and/or a chance to explore the other wonders of Misool. The 9 days on Batbitim were magical, mysterious, and marvelous. We made new friends in our group and with the island staff, and we will carry memories until the next time we meet. Our thanks also go to Nancy McGee, who was out talented and gracious trip leader (and, as she noted, “proxy” for Faith Ortins).
